Monday, 27 January 2014

Under the white cloaks of the Eyo Masquerade

By Andrea Okoye
(With agency reports)


Any visit to Lagos, for cultural and tourism purposes, though, without witnessing the Eyo Masquerade, is no doubt a visit in futility. This is because the culture of the Yoruba people of Lagos State cannot be complete without the mention of the Eyo Masquerade, which has become synonymous with the state.  In fact, Eyo is like a symbol of Lagos State; it is unique to the state, and comes out during culturally prominent festivals. Eyo is a festival on its own.

The Eyo is the masquerade that comes out during this culturally prominent festival. Unlike other festivals, the Eyo festival isn’t just celebrated for entertainment purposes.  Every Eyo festival commemorates a deceased Oba (king) or prominent Lagosian who has had a great impact on the people of Lagos.  The festival has survived over fifteen decades, with the premiere festival held on February 20, 1854, and staged in memory of late Oba Akintoye. But the absence of written history has made it difficult to determine the true origins of the Eyo festival. Different people provide various accounts.  Some say it started to commemorate the late wife of Oba Akintoye who was a princess.  As a result of her royal affinity, her family decided to give her the customary befitting burial for prominent people. This, they claim, was how the first Eyo Festival started. On such days, it is the Eyo masquerades that come out in their hundreds to dance and pay tribute to the deceased person being honoured.

Without the Eyo masquerade, there is no Eyo festival. But, there’s more to choosing a date and watching the elegant and beautiful processions of the various Eyo masquerades through their designated routes, doing their traditional routines and dances.  Historically, the Eyo masquerades (Eyo Orisha) are categorised into five various groups, Adimu (Eyo Orisha), Eyo Alaketepupa, Eyo Oniko, Eyo Ologede, and Eyo Agere. Within these different types of masquerades, there exists a hierarchical order.  Aside these hierarchical differences, they also have distinct physical characteristics and functions.

Eyo Orisha is the highest and most respected among the five Eyo groups. They are also referred to as Adimu Orisha, as they are seen as the closest to the gods.

Eyo Alaketepupa is the second in the order of Eyo groups. They are also called ‘Iyu Oba Olori Eyo Alaketepupa’ which makes them believe they are the first Eyo cult groups in Lagos.  People refer to them as Laba – the first. The Alaketepupa usually wears a red hat with white tapings around it.

Eyo Oniko the third in the order and popularly recognized because of the long wooden stick it wields. Oniko wears a yellow hat with black tapings around it.

Eyo Ologede succeeds the Oniko, and can be identified by the stilts that make them tall, and their green hat taped with yellow ribbons.

The last Eyo group is the Agere. It can be identified by its purple hat with light purple ribbon tapings.

Unlike most other Nigerian festivals, Eyo is not an annual festival, but is scheduled at the discretion of the incumbent Oba. To commence Eyo in Lagos, a family sends a message to the Oba of Lagos, who in turn sends word to the traditional priests. Both parties will ask the family for a date they prefer, so that further consultations and confirmation can be done from Ifa (a god).  Before the Eyo date, rituals and sacrifices are done to avert bad luck, tragedy or bloodshed as well as for the safe commuting and procession of guests and Eyo groups respectively. Most of these rituals are done away from the general public, and can only be performed by members of the Adimu conclave.

On the eve of the Eyo, the Orisha Adimu visits the Imokun to commemorate with the family of the dead, followed by Eyo Oniko, and Eyo Ologede. This is done at about 2am. When they return, feedback is sent to the Oba, who also visits the Imokun in the early hours of the day. After many of the traditional rites have been performed, at about 7am, all the other smaller Eyo groups are now permitted to walk the streets. At this time, the five Eyo groups go to the Oba’s palace in a procession.  Now, Eyo groups can go from place to place visiting and exchanging pleasantries with their friends and loved ones. If any smaller Eyo group meets another superior Eyo, it brings its wooden staff of office (Opanbata) down as a sign of respect and submission.

At this point most people think that marks the end of the Eyo ritual, but about three days after Eyo there’s another cult group called “Akalamekunake” who go to the Imokun to remove the corpse. This rite is prohibited to be seen by the public. Also, two to three months later, the Eyo celebrates the “Adabo” – a gathering to congratulate one another on successfully performing the Eyo rites and festival safely. When this is done, the Oba, his chiefs and the children and relatives of the deceased gather in front of the Oba’s palace to dance. This dance ritual is called “won jo opa.” It is only after this dance that the Eyo festival is considered finally over. Since only one day is open to the public, people believe the Eyo festival occurs only in a single day when in reality it takes about three months for the entire ritual to be conducted.

Taboos of Eyo
No Eyo masquerade is permitted to cross the Lagos lagoon that surrounds the island. For the public observers of the festival, certain taboos that shouldn’t be broken include the wearing of headscarves, shoes, glasses, smoking and using an umbrella. Also, women are prohibited from braiding their hair in the traditional “shoku” upswift style, unless the ends of the braids are loosened. This is because the Eyo Ologede also has the same hairstyle.  In addition, photographs of the Orisha Adimu, Ologede and Oniko are strictly prohibited.  Photos of the Ikolaba and other smaller Eyo groups are, however, permitted.
When the Eyo masquerader comes toward you, you must take off your shoes and stop immediately if you are riding a motorcycle. You can't photograph the eyos, smoke, wear a hat or hold umbrellas, even if it's raining. Women must wear skirts instead of pants, and you can't weave in front of eyos. If you break any of the rules, the eyos will beat you up with the bamboo stick. No kidding! But if you obeyed the rules, the eyos would use the same bamboo stick to pray for you. There has been violence at the festival before, and some residents were even scared when talking about it.

The Eyo Regalia
All Eyo masquerades are clothed in the hat (Akete or Ape) which helps to indicate the house or Eyo group one belongs to; the Iboju, a face mask/cover made of perforated fabrics, and the panbata is the wooden staff of office, which you use to touch other Opanbatas and exchange pleasantries, except for cases where they are used to beat offenders of the Eyo norms and tradition.
In contemporary Lagos, the relevance and investment on the festival has increased to attract more tourists.  Also, the festival has been noted to boost the Lagos State economy through the activities of textile traders, food vendors, and tourists.



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